Beautiful Beaches of Belize and the Perfect Proposal

The stars aren't really visible in Chicago, with the exception of one or two super bright ones, and even those are tough to see most nights. But on this night in Belize, on the tiny island of Caye Caulker, the whole universe appears before our eyes. Tiny white specs pierce the deep purple sky and we sit back in awe, gazing up at the endless collection of stars. The sound of the soft waves brushing against the sand is calming, and I close my eyes and begin to drift off, when Steve reaches over and grabs my hand. It's the perfect evening...

We had arrived on Caye Caulker a couple days earlier after driving to Belize City from San Ignacio. After dropping off our rental car at the airport, we hopped a ride with one of the Budget Rental employees, who took us to the ferry. I bought our tickets as Steve ordered a quick lunch and a couple beers, which we gulped down before the boat departed for the island. Forty-five minutes and a head of windblown hair later, we stepped onto the white sand beach of Caye Caulker, a small limestone coral island that measures about five miles long and less than a mile wide. We could literally see from one side to the other, talk about tiny. But certainly not secluded. The island is bustling with dozens of hotels, restaurants, shops and bars.

Our hotel, Seaside Cabanas, was a quick walk from the dock. We checked in, dropped off our luggage and took a walk down the beach, stepping briefly into the clear sapphire blue water as we meandered on the coast. Despite the size of Caye Caulker, we still managed to get a little lost among the dirt roads and houses. We had walked south, and then turned west, but didn't account for the fact that the island curves enough that we couldn't turn back north without going back east--is your head spinning yet? We managed to make our way back to the hotel, noting a few places we needed to visit a little later.

Someone we met in San Ignacio had told us we had to watch the sunset at The Split, the waterway that divides the island in two. We thought there was a nice restaurant there where we could relax with a drink and watch the sun go down. Once we got there, however, we soon learned it was a party hangout spot for young travelers and locals. Most of them were lazing on the dock right next to the water, guzzling colorful drinks and dancing to the loud music blaring from the two-story bar that was surrounded by even more people screaming for drinks. It took a good ten minutes for me to get a bartender's attention. We ordered some fruity concoction and made our way upstairs to see if we could find some seats. No such luck. We stood by the bannister and watched as the sun slowly crept towards the horizon.

The excitement and noise from the bar was wearing on me, so we finished our drinks and walked along the west side of the island to find a quieter spot. There were a few small docks where other groups were enjoying the view, so we watched from there until the sun went down--or until our stomachs started grumbling uncontrollably, not sure which one happened first.

We ate dinner at Rainbow Grill, located right on the water. Service was super quick and we got our drinks and food pretty much right away. The jerk fish was delicious, and very spicy, which of course, I loved. After dinner, we decided it was way too early to head back to the hotel, so we stopped into a nearby bar called Barrier Reef Sports Bar & Grill. It was very lively inside and we soon found out it was trivia night. We met a nice guy from Canada, who recruited us to be on his team. We actually did surprisingly well, and would have won had we not wagered most of our points on the final question (which we got wrong). Despite our loss, we had a wonderful time meeting some interesting folks and throwing back some beers.

We decided to spend most of the next morning relaxing by the pool, since our whole trip so far had been go-go-go. Like I've said before, I usually don't eat much in the morning, but breakfast looked so delicious (and it was complimentary). I devoured the ripe fruit, yogurt and freshly baked pastries, and then we splayed out on lounge chairs and got some sun.

When lunch rolled around, we made our way down the beach and found a spot right near the water called Brisas del Mar. Unfortunately, the location was the only good thing about this place. It was super overpriced and service was very slow. I ordered the fish tacos, which were basically a wrap cut in half. Steve's fish sandwich was soggy and fell apart the minute he unwrapped it. We were disappointed in our decision, and promised ourselves to think before picking a place based solely on location.

We spent the afternoon shopping, but it was a lot harder than I anticipated finding good gifts for everyone. Each vendor had the same stuff, and nothing really stood out to me as being uniquely Belizean. Thinking back, I'm not really sure what that means. I think what stopped me from buying more was how cheap most things looked, and I couldn't bring myself to spend money on something that seemed mass manufactured for tourists. I did buy some traditional coffee beans at Ice and Beans Coffee Shop, a super cute shop that makes delicious gourmet donut holes, which they let us taste for free!

Since it was our last night on the island, we decided to get dressed up and go to a nice dinner at this place just down the road from our hotel. Habanero only has seats on the porch, and it was pretty busy when we got there. We lucked out, though, and snagged the last table. It was much more romantic than we anticipated, but it was a nice surprise. I ordered a snapper salad and Steve got the Rainforest Snapper. Normally, I would try to order something completely different than him, but the snapper just sounded too good to pass up. And I wasn't disappointed. The restaurant was a little pricey, but considering how much food we got, it was very reasonable, especially compared to prices in the U.S. As we dined, a guitar player serenaded everyone with classic and popular songs. It definitely added to the ambiance.

When we finished dinner, we took a short walk around the island before heading back to the hotel and relaxing out by the pool. As Steve held my hand, I kept thinking how incredible Belize is and how lucky we were to experience as much of it as we did. I was ready to call it a night, but Steve pleaded for me to wait a little longer. This was such a perfect night, and he felt we had to soak as much of it in as we could. It was a little suspicious, but I went with it. A few minutes passed, and I started to fall asleep. I sat up and told him I was going to the room, but he held onto me. He was shaking and tripping over his words a little, and I suddenly knew what was happening. He didn't get down on one knee, he didn't even have the ring, but the night was too perfect, he couldn't plan anything better at home, and so he went for it. He proposed right there next to the pool and I accepted. The perfect end to an already unforgettable evening.

The following morning, I was still in a post-proposal haze when we went downstairs to grab some breakfast before checking out of the hotel. We still had a snorkeling excursion planned that afternoon, so we left our bags at the front desk and headed over to pick up our gear. A small group of us boarded the boat and headed over to the barrier reef. At our first stop, we followed the guide around the reef for about an hour as he pointed out coral residents and various sea creatures. We ventured over to another part of the reef, where we were allowed to explore on our own. Then, we ended our trip at Shark/Ray alley, which is exactly like it sounds. A spot in the reef brimming with Nurse Sharks and large stingrays, all swimming within inches of us. I managed to stay in the water for a few minutes, but a close encounter with a ray made me scramble back to the boat.

When we got back to the island, Steve and I grabbed a quick lunch at an open-air restaurant called Roses Bar and Grill. We got there just in time, as it started to pour once we sat down, the first time it had rained the whole trip! The seafood ceviche I ordered was super fresh and delicious, but Steve's Hawaiian Sandwich was a little lackluster. Still, it was a nice final meal on the island. We picked up our luggage and caught the ferry, but not before buying some homemade banana bread from a local vendor.

We arrived back in Belize City and made our way back to Villa Boscardi, the same bed and breakfast we stayed in our first night. Looking back on it now, we should have stayed one more night on the island, and then taken an early ferry in the morning to catch our flight, but you live you learn. We kept it simple our last night, ordering some pizza from a local shop nearby and enjoying some wine as we relaxed in our room and nursed our sunburns (didn't realize how much sun we got while snorkeling).

As we packed our bags the next morning, I was sad to leave Belize. We had such an incredible time and created so many memories. It was truly one of the best trips I've been on, and I know we'll be back. There's so much we didn't see, and I want to explore more of this beautiful, friendly country. I'll keep Belize in my heart, always.

Belize Jungle Expeditions: An Unforgettable Time

"You will get a little wet..."
This comment seems pretty unambiguous, right? That's what we thought when we first signed up for the Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave Tour in San Ignacio, Belize. My boyfriend and I wore our swimsuits, and comfortable clothes that would dry quickly. I wore hiking boots, he wore tennis shoes. I thought it would be smart to bring an extra shirt, just in case, but neither of us even thought about a towel or dry shoes. It said "a little wet," so how much preparation did we really need to make? One of the other tour participants had a towel, so I quickly grabbed one right before we hopped in the van, not that I thought we would need it. How wrong I was.

We needed to hike about a mile through the jungle to reach the cave, and within 50 feet, we were waist deep in water crossing a stream. Before the end of the hike, we would wade through the stream two more times and trudge through muddy trails. To enter the cave, we had to swim across a deep pool, drenching our entire bodies before clambering up onto the solid limestone. A little wet? Yeah right!

San Ignacio was one of our first stops on our week-long trip to Belize. The vacation started off smooth, for the most part. We hit a small speed bump with a two and a half hour delay in Houston, which landed us in Belize City a few hours later than we anticipated with no food in our stomachs and nothing great close to the bed and breakfast we had booked for the night. Still, we were excited to be there, finally, after months of long hours and intense stress at work.

Port of Belize City

On our first morning, we enjoyed a lovely breakfast at the hotel, where we chatted with an older couple from New Mexico who had a condo over on San Pedro, the popular beach destination of Belize. They gave us many tips and suggestions on places to go, as they had been coming to Belize for years. It was definitely helpful to hear about the country, and what we could expect as we drove the two hours inland to San Ignacio. We made a quick visit to downtown Belize City, but there really wasn't any point, as there isn't much there to see. In fact, if you don't need to stay in Belize City for any reason, I recommend passing it by or using it only as a transition point in your trip.

Once we got on the highway, it was pretty much a straight shot west to San Ignacio. The area surrounding Belize City is pretty bare, just flat plains of brown and green shrubs. Not much to look at. I started seeing signs for the Belize Zoo, and thought it would be fun to check it out. Steve was a little apprehensive, he didn't think it would be anything special. We have zoos in America, after all. But instead of giving in on this, I insisted we stop. And it's a good thing we did.

In the U.S., most zoos keep the animals a good distance from the animals, and they are separated by strong iron fences, cement walls, and 10-foot moats. In Belize, animals and people are separated by...well...chicken fence. It's true. I could put my face right up next to a jaguar, with only a thin layer of wire fencing between us. It was incredible. That would never fly in America.

We spent about an hour at the zoo, and then continued on to the capital, Belmopan. We stopped for lunch at a cute little cafe, where we sat out on the patio and enjoyed our first sips of the local brew, Belikin. It's basically their version of Miller Lite, a beer I never drink (I'm a beer snob), but something about Belikin was much more palatable. Or maybe I loved the idea of drinking a cool beer at one in the afternoon in sunny 80 degree weather. Man, did I ever need this vacation.

Less then an hour later, we arrived in San Ignacio. Just a short drive up a hill from the city was our lodge, Maya Mountain Lodge. It consists of about eight or nine small lodges, and one large house that had seven rooms, which is where we stayed. We knew we had an early start the next morning for the ATM tour, so decided to have a relaxing evening at the lodge. We sat by the pool, had a quiet dinner and then drank some wine on the patio.

We rose bright and early, loaded up our backpack with sunscreen, bug spray, water and Steve's camera, and headed down to the main house for breakfast. I usually don't eat until mid-morning, and that meal generally consists of a bowl of cereal or some yogurt and fruit. In Belize, they definitely don't think small. We got a heaping of scrambled eggs, beans, ham or sausage, fruit and some kind of fluffy pastry that we topped with delicious mango jam. This was all complemented by coffee and fresh squeezed juice. I rationalized that we needed a big meal to keep up energized for the day, and proceeded to eat everything on my plate.

The van picked us up, along with another couple from our lodge, and we all piled in with some more folks from a place up the road. The ride to the cave was long and bumpy, but thankfully we had a local who knew how to navigate the many potholes and divots. I mean, if you think Chicago has bad potholes, go to Belize and you'll be singing a different tune. The whole way there, we were forced to slow down at speed bumps and pedestrian crossings, two things considered hassles in the U.S. But in Belize, they use it as a chance to say hello to the people standing along the road. It's not a typical wave or a shout "hi," but rather a peace sign. Just two fingers and a smile, and that's it.

When we got to the parking lot, we were told by the park ranger that absolutely no cameras were allowed beyond the lot. Sadly, Steve had to leave his camera behind in the van. We grabbed our water, strapped on our helmets and started walking. As I mentioned, when we reached the stream, our only option was to walk straight through the water. In the U.S., someone would have built us a nice, dry bridge to cross. But that's not how things work in Belize. It's all natural here, for the most part.

We reached the mouth of the cave and made our way across the deep pool of bluish gray water. When our whole group had assembled on the limestone, we turned on our headlamps, and followed our guide through the darkness. Again, I was expecting some kind of assistance in the cave, some lights here and there, a ramp or two, some railings. But there was nothing of the sort. We relied only on the headlamps for light, and a marked path, forget it. We waded through water, climbed along limestone, squeezed through rocks, clung to slippery walls and swam through shallow pools, until we made it nearly a mile into the cave.

There, we were faced with yet another unexpected challenge. We needed to get to an upper passage, the burial site for hundreds of Mayan artifacts and a few skeletons. But to get there, we had to ascend a large limestone formation in the middle of the creek, and then pull ourselves up to a shelf-like portion of the rock face, without the help of a ladder or any other kind of man-made contraptions. And so we climbed.

Once everyone made it up to the passage, we had to take off our shoes so as not to cause damage to the artifacts as we walked through the hollowed chambers. Pottery and tools were all over, calcified right into the cave floor. We continued through the caverns, where we spotted three skulls and even more ancient artifacts. The tour culminated with the best-known of the skeletons, the "crystal maiden," a young female whose bones have been calcified so they appear almost crystallized.

The return journey didn't feel nearly as long, and we emerged from the cave a short time after descending from the upper passage. I was grateful to feel the warm sun on my skin, as being in a dark, damp cave for three hours didn't help the fact I was soaked to the bone. Despite the chill I felt, it was one of the most incredible experiences I've ever had, and one I won't soon forget. We made our way back to the van, where everyone changed into dry clothes and we ate a quick lunch before heading back to the lodge.

After a warm shower and an outfit change, I was ready to explore the city of San Ignacio. Our guide told us about a great restaurant slightly off the beaten path called Cenaida's. It took us a little while to find it, as it was on a side street and didn't have much signage to set it apart. There were two seats at a bar on the tiny front patio, so we quickly grabbed them, not knowing how busy it would get. We ordered two Belikins and perused the menu. We both opted for the coconut curried fish special. The fillet was super fresh and perfectly seasoned, and the rice had just the subtlest hint of coconut, perfectly complemented by black beans and fresh vegetables. We ordered two more beers and finished off our meals. Absolutely one of the best meals I had the whole trip. And for less than $25, total!

We met up with some people from our lodge and others from the cave tour at a little bar near the main square, where the drinks were super cheap and the floor was basically an indoor beach. We chatted for a few hours, before calling it a night and heading back.

The next morning, we got up early again for our next tour: Barton Creek canoeing. We had another filling breakfast and then headed out to the cave with our guide. During our long and bumpy ride, our guide took us through the Amish country of Belize (yes, there is an Amish country there), and it was interesting to see these people plowing the fields with only the use of a horse, all wearing the exact same outfits. It's exactly like the Amish living in Pennsylvania.

We made it to Barton Creek, where we threw on some life jackets and hopped in our canoe. We thought we were going to be doing a lot of physical activity, but it turned out to be a very mellow canoes ride, with our guide doing most of the paddling. Steve sat in the front and took pictures, although it was very difficult to get a good shot. It's very tough to capture the grandeur and intricacies in these caves. The water has carved incredible formations throughout, you really have to just see it to understand how amazing they are. A quick hour in and out of the cave, and we were on to our next adventure: A waterfall.

We had to drive a few more miles to get there, and then make our way down a steep set of stairs to get to the base of the falls. We jumped right into the refreshing water, swam around and lounged in the sun. It was a nice afternoon, very relaxing, and the incredible setting didn't hurt either.

Back at our hotel, we started packing up all our stuff, as we were leaving early the next morning. We had one more dinner in the city at Ko-Ox Han nah. Another recommendation from our guides that turned out to be a great meal. It was a little more expensive than dinner at Cenaida's, but still very reasonable. I also enjoyed their cocktails, which is amazing since they are heavy on the rum, and I'm not much of a rum drinker. We wandered around downtown for a little while, before going back to the lodge and drinking some wine on the patio.

In the morning, we loaded our car and scarfed down a quick breakfast before driving out to Xunantunich, an ancient Mayan ruin that is right next to the Guatemalan border. To get there, we had to take a ferry across the river, which was hand operated by a guy who has been carting people across for over 20 years. We were the first people at the ruins when they opened, so we got to explore without worrying about a bunch of crowds or tours getting in the way. As we walked up to the ruins, we could hear this eerie howling. That, combined with the heavy fog that hung over the moss-covered stone temples, gave the place a haunted feel, which makes sense considering its hundreds of years old. The howling, we soon learned, were howler monkeys. We ventured into the trees and found them leaping from branch to branch above us, howling and barking like mad. It was pretty entertaining.

Once the fog lifted and the sun burned off the clouds, we made sure to make our way to the top of the main temple to see one of the most amazing view of the surrounding jungle and Guatemala. It was truly remarkable.

We got back in our car and started out on the drive back to Belize City, where we would begin the next leg of our journey to the island of Caye Caulker. As we made our way through San Ignacio, I slowed the car to traverse a few speed bumps. A few local teenagers were waiting for the bus. I smiled and threw up my fingers in a sign of peace.

(second half of the trip to come in the next post.)

A & V's Adventures in Michigan

A full growler, three bombers, 16 tall cans, six beer glasses, a variety six pack of Michigan brews. All sitting in the back of my car. These are the mementos from my trip to Michigan with my roommate, Amanda. Our journey to Holland and Grand Rapids provided us with access to some of the best craft and micro breweries in the country, and we happily indulged.

Not to give the wrong impression or anything, we did more than enjoy some wonderful beer. In fact, we got to see a lot in Western Michigan, and, despite the cold and piles of snow, I definitely intend to return.

We left Chicago early in the morning to avoid traffic, and made the three hour drive to Holland, Michigan, just on the other side of Lake Michigan. You immediately feel the quaintness of this small city, with its historic downtown and strong Dutch influence, a complete contrast from Chicago. We both needed some caffeine, so we found a parking spot (quite easily) on 8th street, the main stretch in downtown, and stopped in at Lemonjello's Coffee.

After relaxing in the coffee shop for a little while, we made our way over to the Holland Visitors Bureau to meet with some representatives there to get more information on the city and all the things visitors can do here. We munched on a delicious lunch at  84 East Foods & Spirits, while chatting about everything Holland has to offer. February isn't the best time to visit, only because many of the major attractions are closed until spring. However, there are many things to experience in the winter, as well as the warmer summer months. It took an hour lunch to go through it all with us, so I'll give you the cliff notes version.

In fall/winter:

• Shopping on 8th street. The sidewalks and streets are heated for snow-free walking, and there are a number of locally owned businesses where you can find one-of-a-kind Holland artifacts and food. Stop into the famous Peanut Store, opened in 1902, and savor candies, roasted nuts and Fabiano's famous nutty paddle pops.
• Visit the city's two distilleries: New Holland (also great beers!) and Coppercraft.
• A wide variety of winter festivals and events, including Holiday Open House, Santa's Shoppe, Parade of Lights and Shopping Jam. And don't miss Sinterklaas Eve, the Dutch folk celebration centered around Sinterklaas or St. Nicholas.
• Painting and candle making at places like Candle-ology and Carolyn Stich Studio.

In spring/summer:

• Tulip Time, the kickoff to the summer season and one of the most popular events in the city.
• Dutch Village, a theme park modeled after the towns of The Netherlands. Pick up a pair of personalized wooden shoes, traditional Dutch delftware and a bag of just-can't-stop-eating-them kruidnootjes (tiny gingerbread cookies covered in chocolate). Opens April 26, 2014.
• Windmill Island Gardens, home of the DeZwaan Windmill, the only authentic Dutch windmill operating in the U.S.
• Boat cruises on Lake Michigan and Lake Macatawa.
• Dune riding in nearby Saugatauk.
• Thursday night street performer series all summer long.
• The low-rider show, a vintage cruise along 8th street and the all-European "Euro Hangar" show at Park Township Airport.
• Holland State Park and Big Red, the most photographed lighthouse in Michigan

Honestly, I could go on. There's so much to do in Holland. I know that's very broad, but the list will continue for a while if I keep going.

After lunch, we checked into our hotel, Haworth Inn, which is right on the campus of Hope College. I had a couple meetings with representatives from Tulip Time and Dutch Village, to discuss the events and attractions for my freelance article. These folks definitely made me want to come back to Holland once the snow melts, so I can experience these sites in all their glory. 

A quick stop back at the hotel to grab Amanda, and then we walked over to Warner Vineyards, a wine shop featuring local vinos to sample. For $5, you get five tastings, but we got two extras, cause we're so pretty (according to guy working there). We liked pretty much everything we tried, and I ended up buying a bottle. Then we headed over to New Holland Brewing, where we had a delicious cheese board and three different beers, each. We picked the one we liked the most and bought a growler of it (first souvenir). 

The next morning, we woke up early and checked out the college fitness center, because we're crazy like that. After our workout, I had one more meeting at Windmill Island. The windmill is incredible, even covered in snow. The woman I met with showed me a promotional video for the attraction, and it would be absolutely gorgeous to see in the summer, especially with the rainbow of tulips growing in the open field next to it. I'm also curious to see it work, as when it operates, it creates flour that is distributed to the whole city.

We checked out of the hotel, and made the quick 30-minute drive to Grand Rapids, where we met a representative from the CVB at the Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park. This is a leading cultural destination in the Midwest, and features 132 acres of indoor and outdoor gardens, a significant sculpture collections and annual horticulture exhibitions. We ate lunch in the Taste of the Gardens Cafe, which has a lovely barley and berry salad and a warming tomato and artichoke soup. We chatted briefly about all the great attractions in Grand Rapids, and once again, the list goes on and on:

• Grand Rapids Public Museum
• Gerald R. Ford Museum
• Grand Rapids Art Museum
• The Downtown Market
• The Quilt of Belonging, a collaborative textile art project consisting of 263 blocks that represent all Canada's main aboriginal groupings and every world nation.
• ArtPrize, a citywide art event where the public gets to vote for their favorite pieces on display.

The Beer Trail was what interested Amanda and I the most. As lovers of craft beer, we were eager to try a few of the best local brewers. After lunch, we walked around the indoor gardens, since the outdoor sites were tough to experience in all the snow. We then made our way to the hotel and unloaded all our luggage and relaxed for a little while. By 3pm, we were jonesing for some beer.

Founders Brewery was the first stop on our trail. I ordered the Party Pils and Amanda got the Smoked Porter. We had a nice conversation with the bartenders to learn more about what we should see in Grand Rapids. Obviously, they suggested everything beer related, but it was definitely insightful and we already have a beer fest in April that we plan to go back for. Then, we headed to HopCat, voted the best brewpub in Grand Rapids. I ordered one of the house brews and Amanda picked another Michigan beer, and we had to have an order of "crack fries," which are as addicting as they sound. Again, we chatted with locals about what makes Grand Rapids so great, and once again, the beer was mentioned on many occasions. We started to sense a trend. 

Brewery Vivant was the next stop, and it was by far our favorite. Built in an old chapel and funeral home, Vivant had a quality about it that was so different from any place I'd been before. It was extremely welcoming, had delicious food and some of the best beers I've tried in a while. We met some fun and friendly individuals who were happy to boast about their city. After a quick drive to the train station to drop off one of our new-found friends, we headed to Harmony Brewing for our final round. This was probably our least favorite, despite great beer and a scrumptious caramel-covered pretzel. It was more like a restaurant and since it was Valentine's Day, there were a number of couples all around us, a less than desirable scenario.

When we got back to the hotel, we found a six pack of different Michigan beers and a couple boxes of candy from a local store. It was a gift from the hotel manager. Such a nice gesture, and one that definitely makes me want to come back to Grand Rapids, on top of everything else I experienced there.

On the last day of the trip, we grabbed a quick breakfast at the hotel before checking out. We headed back to Brewery Vivant to pick up some beers to take back to Chicago, as well as some new beer glasses. We then went to the Downtown Market for lunch. There were a number of different vendors and cuisines, and it was difficult deciding which one to go for. We decided on a healthy Thai option, which was very good. Then we hit the road yet again and headed home.

This was my first trip to Michigan, and I am happy to report that it will not be the last. Amanda and I had a blast, and I will definitely be planning another getaway with her sometime soon. Even though our adventure had a heavy beer theme, trust me when I say that this area of Michigan appeals to more than just the beer fans and winos of the world. It caters to nature lovers, gardeners, history buffs, families, art lovers and recreational enthusiasts. I highly recommend a trip here, even just for a weekend. I already have two more trips in mind for warmer months, and I look forward to the adventures that await.

Touring Eataly

The scent of freshly baked bread hits my nose the moment I walk through the doors. A wooden cart of bright, colorful produce greets me at the entrance. After I shiver away the cold from outside, store my hat and gloves in my bag, the enormity of what's in front of me really sets in. This is Eataly.

For those of you who haven't heard of Eataly, it's basically heaven--squeezed into 63,000 square feet on two levels of a large structure in the River North neighborhood of Chicago. But before this Eataly graced out fair city, it first popped up in Italy (go figure) back in 2007, and the emporium has been spreading like wild fire ever since.

A little background. Eataly was founded by Oscar Farinetti, who opened the first location in Turin, Italy. His goal was to make high quality Italian food available to the masses in a welcoming environment where you can taste, learn, shop and dine--all at the same time! Now, there are 26 stores around the world, 10 in Italy, 13 in Japan, one in New York, one in Dubai, one in Turkey and one in Chicago.

The Chicago location opened recently in October 2013, and boasts 23 eateries on two floors, including customer favorite La Pizza & La Pasta and the ever popular Nutella Bar (yes, you heard me right, a bar dedicated to this glorious hazelnut spread). Locals and visitors are flocking here every day--especially on the weekends--and lines are stretching around corners and out the doors to get a taste of Eataly's delicious food. And after visiting today, I can see why.

I had the opportunity to take one of the public tours of the facility (available every Wed., $35). These tours last an hour and a half, and take you through nearly every culinary section, and even give you a glimpse of some of the action behind the scenes. It's incredibly informative and interesting, and really gives you a sense of what Eataly is all about: Good food and eating well.

We started at the information desk on the first floor where our guide gave us a little background on Eataly, and then took us through the fresh produce section. We spoke with the "vegetable butcher," whose main job is to chop the produce you want to purchase to your desired specifications. He'll even give you some tips on how to cook things and what to cook them with, so you can go home and create your own delectable dishes.

We then headed upstairs, where most of the eateries are located. Our first stop...beer. Yes, Eataly has an in-house brewing system, where they craft a couple of their own beers. Definitely wanted to try some, but it was only 10:30 in the morning, so I'll have to return for a taste at a later date.

Next, we hit the cheese counter. The glorious wheels of rich, sharp goodness were displayed proudly in front of us, and it was tough not to ask for a piece of every single one. We were given small samples of prosciutto and salami, along with a couple cheeses. Ask me what they were and I couldn't tell you, I was too preoccupied with eating.

Then, we wandered over to the fresh mozzarella station, where my new best friend Patrick was hand-making fresh, soft balls of cheese. There was a lovely plate of mozzarella drizzled in olive oil waiting for us, and we happily obliged. The flavor was still fresh on my tongue when we reached the meat section, where there was a display case of all kinds of responsibly raised cuts of beef, pork, chicken and veal, as well as Eataly's wide selection of handmade sausages. Unfortunately no samples here, and none at the Pesce (fish) counter, either. Although some lucky people were given slices of octopus--who doesn't love a rubbery tentacle? I'll pass.

It was then on to the pasta section, one of my all time favorite Italian foods. The pasta is made fresh everyday and is available for purchase, guaranteeing you the best dinner possible. We tried the agnolotti (house made meat-filled pasta with butter sauce)--amazing! I had to force myself to only have one. We made our way through the preservatives and canned goods section. (If you're looking for truffles in any form, you'll find it here, with the exception of truffle oil.)

We reached the most popular spot in Eataly: La Pizza. We watched as two trained rossopomodoro pizzaioli (pizza makers) created a fresh Neopolitan-style pizza right in front of us. We all salivated as the pizza was placed in front of us, and we happily took a slice each. I haven't had pizza like that since I was in Naples back in 2006. To. Die. For. (Seriously wishing I was eating that right now instead of my left over vegan thai food...this is just not cutting it.)

We moved on to the bakery section. I love bread, and the baguettes were just amazing. It was here that we got to go behind the bakery and see where the bread is baked, in a large wood-burning oven. The smell is enough to make you want to eat a whole loaf by yourself, but we sufficed with a small slice of their classic stuff.

From there we sampled olive oil from their extensive collection of fine Italian oils, and then made our way over to the wine section. Unfortunately the bar wasn't open, so we couldn't taste any of the Vino Libero (literally means free wine), which is meant to be wine that is free of preservatives and such. Definitely interested in trying some wines when I return.

We headed back downstairs to the pride of Eataly: The Nutella Bar. We munched on Eataly's homemade bread smothered in hazelnutty, chocolately Nutella. I was immediately transported back to my childhood days, slathering the sweet spread on a piece--or two--of toast and quickly gobbling it down. How not everyone had this sweet treat growing up, I'll never know, but it's great to see that it's getting some much deserved recognition now.

Our last stop was the gelato bar, complete with traditional and Lait (light) Gelato, which is more like soft serve--something I've never seen before. We each got a small cup of a flavor of our choice. But since I'd just had a filling slice of Nutella bread, I opted for small tastes of a few--I recommend...well...all of them!

Needless to say, I will be back to Eataly. There's so much I didn't get to try, and I would love to take some extra time to shop around for some fresh ingredients--and pick up some items that I haven't had since I lived in Italy. And I will definitely bring some of my friends with me, as I know many of them would appreciate the glory that is Eataly. The pizza. The bread. The cheese. The wine. The Nutella. I mean, it's my dream come to life! And it's only a short train ride away!

Have Polar Vortex, Will Travel

I woke up to another pile of snow outside, and it hasn't stopped coming down all day. On the news this morning, they said Chicago has received more than 50 inches of snow this winter alone. 50! That's at least 20 inches more than the average for this time of year, and at least 45 inches more than what we got last year (I think it was about 8 inches--what I wouldn't give for that kind of mild weather right now).

Then I saw this article asking if a Polar Vortex prompts travel. Bottom line. Yes, it does.

Thankfully, in two weeks I will be leaving this frigid cold and endless snowstorm for the warm, sunny beaches of Belize! And that day cannot come quick enough. I was hoping to get a small break from it all this weekend with an impromptu trip to Alabama to see my boyfriend (he's there for 2 1/2 weeks for work), but everyone seems to have the same desire, so flight prices are super high. Alas, no semi-warm weather for me just yet.

Next week, I will be heading to a place that is probably colder and potentially has more snow than Chicago: Grand Rapids (and Holland), Michigan. Despite the fact that it will still be winter there, I'm really looking forward to it. I've never been to Michigan, believe it or not, and I've heard great things about the western part of the state. I have a friend who went to college in Holland, and told me all the things I should check out--of course half of them are only open during the warmer months, but that's okay. I'm excited to check out some of the attractions that are open, and taste some of the local brews! New Holland Brewery is one of my favorites, so excited to check out their tasting room, along with some of the other local craft brewers in the area.

While that will be a nice change from the scene here in Chicago, what's really keeping me motivated is that tropical paradise that awaits me in a few weeks. I cannot wait to pull on some shorts and a tank top and go exploring the caves of the Cayo District, wandering through the humid forests and taking a dip in the jungle rivers. And that sandy beach in Caye Caulker is calling my name, a place where I'll lay on the sand and snorkel with the marine life.

Just two more weeks in this Polar Vortex...hope it goes by fast.