A Foodie Tour

Whole Journeys

Food and travel go together like...peanut butter and jelly, spaghetti and meatballs, wine and cheese...pretty much anything with perfect synergy that complements the details of the other flawlessly. Food can make a journey complete, since a destination would not be what it is without this important cultural element.

So it makes sense that there are plenty of tours centered around food, either offered by a tour company, a cruise line, a hotel or a local restaurant. But it's a bit odd to find a grocery store offering these kinds of trips. Enter Whole Foods Market, known for its selection of specialty and organic foods, as well as its commitment to offering local produce and meat, and sustainable seafood.

Whole Foods has now entered the travel industry with a new company aimed at active food lovers who want to "experience what travel should taste like." The company, called Whole Journeys, will offer guided tours from five days to two weeks on 11 itineraries in Europe, China and the U.S. The tours will take guests to local farms and food producers, wine tastings and cooking classes. Travelers will also be able to take part in cultural activities and physical endeavors like hiking and biking.

“We’re all about authentic experiences and rich cultural connections. I encourage guests to open themselves to the culture in each destination, and share their own perspective with the people there. When the trip is over, everyone comes away with a wider worldview and, hopefully, a deeper appreciation for global diversity and food culture and traditions,” said Kathy Dragon, executive director of Whole Journeys.

As of right now, there are a lot of tours through Italy, which makes sense considering the country's love of food and the importance it holds in Italy's culture. I've had the chance to experience many of Italy's cities and its wonderful culinary offerings, so it's time to venture somewhere else, some place different.

Turkish Delight. Souce: Whole Journeys' website

The "Turkish Delights" itinerary takes you all through Turkey's epic history and exotic cuisine. The trip explores the diversity of the country from the Aegean Coast and Ephesus, before heading to Cappadoccia. Travelers will walk roads taking them to "lunar-like landscapes of volcanic chimneys, gorges, vineyards, elaborately carved and Byzantine frescoed rock churches and entire underground cities." It lasts nine days, eight nights, and spots are capped at 16, so availability is pretty limited. 

All the trips start in April 2013 and cost anywhere between $3,000 and $4,500 per person. The tours include guides, visits, hotels and most meals.

Culinary Excursions

A large part of travel is, of course, food. And it makes sense, because most of the time, the places we visit have cuisine that is completely different from our home town, especially if you venture to a different country. Personally, I don't feel I have truly experienced a place until I've eaten one of its local specialities. If you can find a trip that not only offers unique delicacies, but also an opportunity to learn about the culinary process of making it, then you've really got something special.

http://www.3tomatoeslv.com/

I have had the privilege of partaking in some of these activities, and I highly recommend them. If you happen to go to Sienna, Italy, I suggest signing up for a personal cooking class. I, along with my family and friends, got the chance to cook with a Tuscan-style chef right in the comfort of her own kitchen. We chopped, sliced, seasoned, sipped and tasted our way through the afternoon, enjoying classic dishes like bruschetta, chickpea soup a four herb pasta. We ate each dish as it was prepared, heading back into the kitchen after each one to dive into the next, all the while drinking glass after glass of Italian wine.

Being from Colorado, I know a number of quality brewery tours that give you a first-hand glance at the beer-makign process...but these can usually be found in any city nowadays, especially with the popularity of craft beers in our culture. However, I recently stumbled upon a new business in Chicago's West Loop neighborhood called Brew & Grow, where home brewers can buy all the supplies they need to make beer on their own. Not only that, but it offers beer making classes, where you can make your own stout or ale, learn about flavors and consistency, as well as what food is best to pair with it. It's a great way to learn about a local activity while experiencing a city that is becoming a big player in the craft brew arena.

I read an article in the Wall Street Journal that covers a couple more food getaways for the upcoming harvest season. One in particular that caught my interest--and this should be no surprise to my readers--was the Grape Education at Blackberry Farm in the Smoky Mountains of Tennessee. In mid-November, the farm hosts its Wine Geek 101 event, where guests learn all about wine tasting, selection and pairing. You can also partake in cooking demonstrations and tours of the farm. It's relatively pricey ($1,200 per person) but if you have the time and funds, I think it would be a magical trip.

http://www.seriouseats.com/

Of the other suggestions, I think the next one I would pick is the bread making in Bath, England. Not exactly the easiest location to get to, but for fresh Italian and French bread, I think it's worth it. The five day course costs $300 a day, with one- and three-day courses available, too. An award-winning chef leads the class, where you learn how to make a vast array of different breads, and at the end, I'm pretty sure you get to eat some, too.

For the autumn season, when cooking and comfort food reign supreme (how many days until Thanksgiving?), it seems appropriate to indulge in a culinary excursions. The best part about them is that they can usually be squeezed into a quick weekend trip, making it super easy to enjoy another location on short notice.

Chocoholic Adventures

As I stepped off the train this morning, my nose caught a whiff of that ever familiar scent that drifts through the area of River North around Merchandise Mart: Chocolate. Fresh chocolate. The Blommer Chocolate Company, the largest cocoa bean and chocolate manufacturer in North America, is just a few blocks west of my office, and when they start cooking up their confectionary masterpieces, the whole neighborhood can smell the decadent treats.

It's common knowledge among those who know me that chocolate is a weakness of mine, a vice, if you will. I have cravings--at least three or four a day--for chocolate, and I never get sick of it. I could have chocolate every day for the rest of my life, and I would die happy. You can deem me a true chocoholic.

So, in honor of Blommer's latest batch of goodies, and the fact that this is Chocolate Week (no I didn't make that up) in Europe, I found a list of explorations specifically geared toward travelers who love chocolate. October for Europeans is all about chocolate, but luckily you don't have to go on these trips during this month only, because this sweet should be celebrated all year round.

While a couple of the trips are more about enjoying the spa-benefits of cocoa (the two-hour Symphony in Chocolate in Austria, and the Mayan chocolate massage in Mexico) most of them are all about eating! Which is something I am all for. Of the tasting adventures, participating in the chocolate making process in St. Lucia sounds like the most exciting, simply because it's a hands-on experience that takes you through every step of chocolate making--from picking the beans from the plantation to taking that first satisfactory bite. Another one that caught my eye was the all-you-can-eat chocolate bar in Boston. Not only is it close enough that I could make a quick weekend trip of it, but it's also in one of my favorite cities in the country--plus my best friend lives there! And, let's be honest, how could anyone turn down something that combines chocolate and all-you-can-eat? Probably my third favorite trip is the chocolate and wine pairing at the Hahndorf Hill Winery in Australia, which is known for its pairings. The ChocoVino Experience is my ideal activity, because it brings together chocolate and my other vice, wine. Totally meant for me.

While these three are at the top of my list, all the others sound interesting and delicious. I mean, who wouldn't enjoy a chocolate tour through Bruges, Belgium, one of the most famous places for world-class cocoa. Or what about a cooking class in France to learn how to make your own delectable chocolate dishes? It all sounds so incredible, and perhaps one day I will get to experience each of these chocoholic adventures.

Move, Learn, Eat: The Digital Equivalent of Eat, Pray, Love

Rather than read over 300 pages of a book or watch a two-hour movie to reach spiritual and emotional understanding, you can simply log on to YouTube and watch three, one-minute clips that are just as inspiring, if not more. (Just as a note, I would definitely recommend reading Eat, Pray, Love, because it is an incredible book. The movie, you can forgo.)

Recently, independent filmmaker Rick Mereki went on a round-the-world trip to 11 countries accompanied by two of his friends. His mission: To document all their experiences and pare them down into three short clips relating to the words Move, Learn and Eat. The following movies are perfectly edited, set to inspirational music and feature images that will make anyone smile--I caught myself smiling the whole time I was watching them, and even laughed out loud a couple times, which drew more than a couple looks from coworkers.

I really enjoyed these short films, and I think any travel enthusiast will, too. So, check them out.




LEARN from Rick Mereki on Vimeo.


EAT from Rick Mereki on Vimeo.

A Day of Armchair Travel

I read about this concept in an article and couldn't help but be intrigued by it. What exactly is armchair travel? It's basically being transported to a destination without actually leaving your seat--or kitchen, or office, or wherever you happen to be situated. There are the typical mediums for armchair travel: movies, music, books, pictures, etc. But there are also some other ways to discover a place without physically going there. Food, drinks, language, art and news stories are all methods of learning, providing want-to-be travelers with the means to venture around the world, even if they cannot find the time or the money to actually do it.

To give you a better idea of what I mean, I'll give you a glimpse into what a day of armchair travel--or as the article sometimes calls it, lazy travel--can look like. As a news analyst, I spend the day perusing the internet for stories about current events relating to business, politics, technology, marketing, hospitality, lifestyle, and, of course, travel. In the morning, I traveled to the Philippines (U.S. issued a travel warning to the country), Charleston, SC (residents there are suing Carnival Cruises over their massive ship), San Francisco, CA (the Fairmont Hotel is being put up for sale), and Vancouver, Canada (Canucks fans went on a rampage after losing the Stanley Cup finals to Boston). Within the span of one work day, I can move from one coast to the other, leap over the pond, scale the terrain abroad, and cruise back on over to my desk, all before clocking out. What's even better is that I learn something in the process. I gain knowledge about a place through the events that are going on right now. News stories are a window into how people are living, responding to the daily problems, triumphs, concerns and hopes that they encounter every day. I will admit that reading through story after story can get a little tedious, despite all the fascinating things happening in our world. Also, the articles are so brief, it doesn't give me a chance to really get lost in a single location. Just as I'm getting pulled in, the final sentence approaches and I move on to the next place.

Books offer more of an opportunity to immerse yourself in a destination. As I pedalled and climbed to sweaty glory in the wee hours of the morning, I did it all from the mountain farms of southern Appalachia. I was reading Barbara Kingsolver's Prodigal Summer, the story of three individuals whose lives are magically entwined through nature, love and the wilderness. I felt connected to this world I had never seen, and it made me feel like I knew what people living in that region of America are like, how they talk, their daily routines, their culture, their general environment. I still have more to read, more to learn, but I am eager to venture back there in the evening before drifting off into my own dream world.

But before going to Appalachia, I visited Spain. My friend Laura and I sat down at a table in a bustling, warm restaurant in Chicago, only to quickly drift into the kitchen of a Spanish Tapas bar, the spicy aromas wafting around our heads, penetrating our senses. The sizzling plates of spiced potatoes in tomato sauce, mushrooms stuffed with pork and cheese, and grilled fresh vegetables titillated our appetites and rocketed us into another culture completely diverse from the modern American city outside. We were in a quiant town in the Spanish neighborhoods outside Madrid, sitting at a wrought-iron table atop cobble-stone streets, sipping sweet sangria in the afternoon sun.

The perfect end to a day of armchair travel.

The Most Exciting Two Minutes in Sports

If you are not sure what I am refering to, then you probably aren't a gambler.

Churchill Downs. Credit: Kentucky Tourism

The Kentucky Derby is set to take place tomorrow in Louisville at the famous Churchill Downs racetrack, where thousands of people will be gathered--dressed in their finest suits and gaudiest hats--to watch the 20-odd contestants race 1 1/4 miles for the $2.1 million prize.

It is a highly anticipated race for sports fans and bookies alike as people put both their hearts and their wallets on the table once the horses have been loaded into the starting gate. While I am not much of a horse-racing fan, and I am definitely not one to gamble, I still enjoy tuning in for the big event, mostly to observe the cultural aspect of it all.

This year marks the 137th running of the Derby, and the event continues to captivate audiences worldwide, not just because of the excitement of the race, but also the wonderful traditions that have become iconic over the decades. From the garland of roses and the Twin Spires to the Mint Juleps and Kentucky Oaks, the Derby has become a cherished part of our history. For those of you who are unaware of the details of this timeless celebration, allow me to elaborate.

Garland of roses. Credit: Kentucky Derby

The first race took place in 1875 in the city of Louisville, Kentucky, a place with a long history of horseracing that dates back to 1783. Though it isn't really clear why, the race became a sensation. The rose became a symbol of the event when it was presented to all the ladies that attended a fashionable derby party. The then president of Churchill Downs adopted it as the official race flower, and the rose garland is now synonymous with the celebration after it was presented to the winner in the 1896 running. In 1925, the race was dubbed "The Run of the Roses" and the garland that you see today has been used ever since 1932. Each year, 400 red roses are strung together on a green backing with the seal of the Commonwealth on one end the Twin Spires on the other. Each one also has a crown of roses, green fern and ribbon placed in the center.

The Twin Spires are a landmark in Kentucky. They were built in 1895 atop the racetrack complex and designed by Joseph Dominic Baldez who was recruited to sketch out the new grandstand. Though the spires were not included in the original plan, they were embraced as monuments by all.

As far as cuisine goes, the Kentucky Derby certainly serves up some interesting and classic dishes.

Mint Julep. Credit: Southerliving.com

I'll start with drinks, since the event is so quick, people need libations to keep them happy. The Mint Julep is the signature drink at Churchill Downs, and has been for almost a century. Early Times Distillery has become the name behind the drink, serving up its cocktail for the last 18 years. The company has served up nearly 120,000 drinks each year. The cocktail consists of simple syrup, fresh mint, Early Times Whisky, and crushed ice. If you can't make it to Louisville for one of these, they are sold at local retailers. Critics of this drink say it isn't a proper Julep because it does not contain Bourbon, so if you are looking for something a bit more intense, I suggest making your own or finding something at a local bar. A lesser known cocktail is the Oaks Lily, made with vodka, sweet and sour mix, cranberry juice and Triple Sec.

A local creation, Hot Brown is an open sandwich that is made with sliced turkey, crispy bacon, and buttered toast drenched in Mornay sauce--which is like bechamel (bay-shah-MEL) with cheese. It was invented by the chef at the Brown Hotel in the 1920s and has been a staple of the race ever since. Kentucky Burgoo can best be described as a stew, mostly because it has no known origin and there are countless ways to make it. Basically, its consists of a bunch of meat like mutton, beef, pork and chicken, an assortment of corn, potatoes, lima beans, tomatoes, and a range of spices like Worcestershire. Finally, the Kentucky Derby would not be complete without the Derby Pie. It was invented 50 years ago at Melrose Ince in Prospect, Kentucky. The crust is filled with semi-sweet chocolate and English walnuts and topped with whipped cream.

Derby hat. Credit: Boston.com

Apart from the symbolic racetrack, the delicious drinks and delectable food, the Kentucky Derby is known for one other thing: HATS! Every year people come dressed in their best dresses and top-quality suits, topping it all off with an ostentatious hat. There are no rules as to how big or small a hat is suppose to be, but there is certainly a stigma when it comes to wearing one--it's a must! Perhaps its Southern charm or a status symbol, but the fashionable hat is certainly a tradition in which everyone loves to revel.

For me, the Kentucky Derby showcases a culture that is completely different from the everyday. When people step onto the premises of Chruchill Downs, they are transported to another time, another world. It is a spectacle that can only be experienced once a year, and then it is gone, pushed to the background until the anticipation builds again next spring, when women can buy a new flashy hat, and men can stir up another minty treat.

Cherish the moment while you have it, because, after all, it is only two minutes from the moment the gates fly open to when the horses cross over the finish line.

Exploring Neighborhoods

It was one of the first nice days in a very long time, so I took the opportunity to walk instead of drive to run my errands. With any luck, the weather is only going to get nicer, which means more chances to go wandering around the city. The beauty of Chicago is its diversity, and there are 77 distinct neighborhoods each of which has a unique history and tradition. The best way to see these neighborhoods is to explore them on foot. Of course, it's difficult to know where to begin, especially with so many places to see. That's where Chicago Neighborhood Tours comes in.

Each tour is designed to allow visitors--and even locals--to experience different areas of the city that they may not have thought to see. Among the most popular tours is Chicago's Magnificent Churches, which visits some of the city's amazing houses of worship. The locations vary from tour to tour, but each church has its own intricacies, history and customs. The Taste of the Neighborhoods is another popular tour, which takes guests on a delectable journey to some of the city's best eateries. Tours include two restaurants and a dessert stop, and destinations change every two months. Other tours this year include Uptown & Argyle Street, Wicker Park & Ukrainian Village, and Columbus Park & Garfield Park. All tours go by motor coach and foot, and last anywhere from two to four hours. Prices and dates of each tour vary.

While I am opposed to paying to do something I could probably do on my own, I would consider doing one of these tours mostly because the guide will provide more information and background about places that I would not learn otherwise. When you go exploring by yourself, you can certainly discover a lot, but having someone who is familiar with the area allows you to connect on a deeper level. I think the weather is still too iffy to schedule a tour this month, but maybe once summer rolls around I can participate in one. Now I just have to figure out which one I want to go on, there are way too many great choices. 

Tallinn, Estonia: An Up and Comer

A recent addition to the European Union after accepting the Euro on January 1, Tallinn, Estonia, is quickly becoming a top travel destination. It's rich culture, stunning architecture and historical significance make Tallinn a wonderful place to visit. Winding through the cobble-stone streets lined with colorful buildings, you'll find an untouched world of boutique shops, hip bars and classy restaurants. Not only does Tallinn have an exciting social scene, but it also provides educational stimuli through medieval churches, palaces and towers. It's amazing what you will discover here.

A Little Background...

Tallinn is the capital of Estonia and the largest city in the country. Located on the Northern coast on the banks of the Gulf of Finland, Tallinn has always played a major role in trade and has maintained a strong tie to the sea as a large port city. The city built its infrastructure, culture and economy over the centuries, only to fall under Imperial Russia in 1710. After years of rule, Tallinn and the rest of Estonia declared independence in 1918. The Soviets returned during World War II, and Estonia was occupied by the Soviet Union until declaring independence once again in 1991, re-establishing itself as a democratic state.

Since then, Tallinn has evolved into a technologically advanced city. (Skype was invented here.) But even with its reliance on technology, Tallinn still holds strong to its traditions, and much of medieval Tallinn remains, even after Soviet bombing and raids.

What to See

The city is split into three areas: Toompea, or Cathedral Hill; Old Town; and Estonian Town. Each of these sections contain sites that cannot be missed on your trip to Tallinn, Estonia. Among the list of must-see is Freedom Square, completed just a couple years ago. This newly created attraction is a great place to relax, grab a bite to eat and enjoy Tallinn's impressive architecture. In fact, the square displays the epitome of 1930s-era, art-deco buildings. The large pillar on the west side of the square is the monument to the War of Independence, in remembrance of Estonia's hard-fought battle from 1918 to 1920 for freedom. At the northwest corner of the square, visitors can get a glimpse of the city's old foundations by taking a look through a glass panel in the ground that reveals the stairs of the Harju Gate Tower, which stood during the medieval period.

Another modern area of that city is Rotermann Quarter, which underwent a massive revitalization after Estonia gained back independence in 1991. In its early days, Rotermann Quarter was the heart and soul of industrial Tallinn, boasting a sawmill, department store, a wool mill, a distillery and numerous other businesses. But when the Soviet-era hit, the area slowly declined, and required much attention once the Soviets left. Now the Quarter is home to the Rotermann Centre, a trendy shopping center that opened in 2007. Central square hosts open-air food and craft markets during the warmer seasons, and a Christmas market in December.

No trip to Tallinn is complete without visiting the historic homes of past royalty. Kadriorg Palace, an elegant baroque-style structure, was built for Catherine I by her husband, Peter the Great. While the palace's external design is extravagant, the collection of art inside is truly exceptional, especially if you're an art lover. Kadriorg Art Museum has hundreds of paintings from the 16th through the 20th century. While inside, take some time to admire the painting and decoration of the main hall and various other rooms, which are covered in elaborate patterns and stucco.

When visiting Old Town, you must head over to St. Catherine's Passage, easily one of the most traditional and picturesque spots in the neighborhood. The medieval, narrow walkway runs along the back of what used to be St. Catherine's Church. What makes this road unique is that St. Catherine's Guild resides here. This is a collection of craft stores where artists use traditional techniques to make glassware, jewelry, scarves and ceramics. Visitors can watch artists at work, as the workshops are set up in open-studio fashion. So after you see a vase being molded, you can purchase it and take it home.

Get in touch with Tallinn's spiritual heritage by visiting St. Olav's Church and Tower, a 13th Century structure with a 124-meter steeple that has become a symbol for the town. Although the steeple has played a major role in Tallinn's history, it's also fallen on some bad luck over the years, attracting lightning on many occasions and even catching fire three times as a result of storms. Now things have remained relatively calm, and visitors should not fear making the trek to the top of the stone tower, which can be done anytime between April and October. Once at the top, guests will get breathtaking views of Old Town and Toompea Hill. Inside the church, which dates back to 1267 and was dedicated to King Olaf II of Norway, visitors can gaze at the vaulted ceilings and beautiful designs that cover the walls.


Venture over to Toompea Hill to see the main Lutheran church in Tallinn, The Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin. Established around 1233, this church has seen many renovations, which have attributed to its varied designs from different time periods. Inside, visitors will find German-influenced features, including funereal coats of arms and the burial stones of some notable figures.

Estonia's Parliament can be found in Toompea Castle, sitting prominently on a cliff overlooking the city. The Pikk Hermann Tower, located at the Southern edge of the castle, is a vital symbol. It is said that whichever nation flies its flag over the tower, rules Estonia. Every day the Estonian flag is raised to the tune of the national anthem. But this happens at sunrise, so get there early if you plan on witnessing this event.

Town Hall

As much as it is a major tourist attraction, Town Hall Square should not be missed. It's colorful houses and packed cafes make it an ideal spot for people watching and picture taking. This is a very social location, home to open-air concerts, markets and fairs. Every year, the square hosts the Tallinn Christmas Tree and the Christmas Market. During the summer, Old Town Days Festival takes place here, a medieval carnival with Middle Age traditions.

Tallinn has an array of eclectic and unique museums that you won't find anywhere else. One of these is the Town Hall Pharmacy, the world's oldest operating pharmacy. There's also the Kiek in de Kok Musuem, which gives visitors access to the 17th century tunnels used defend Tallinn from invaders.

If you feel like shopping, check out any of Tallinn's outdoor markets. The Central Market is the largest food market, and there are many other craft and souvenir markets scattered throughout the city.

Tallinn is an extremely high-tech city--you'll be surprised at where you can get WiFi. Since it is so tech-friendly, Tallinn offers tourists audio-guided walking tours on their Ipods, so guests have a trusty guide right in the palm of their hand.

Getting a Taste of Tallinn

Baltic Sprat

Tallinn has a wide range of cuisines for tourists to sample, but if you're looking for local, traditional dishes, head over to Vanaema Juunes or Kuldse Notsu Korts. There you can try any of the classic Estonian meals, such as jellied pork, stewed sauerkraut, pea soup, marinated eel, blood sausage and Baltic Sprats--a herring-like fish. If none of these sound appealing--and let's face it, some of them don't--then you can enjoy more modern and trendy restaurants that serve up fare from all over the world. (Yes, you can get a plate of pasta in Estonia, I won't tell anybody.)

Marzipan figures

All over the city you will find scrumptious chocolates and Estonian marzipan. Check out the Kalev Marzipan Room to watch artists paint marzipan figurines. After satisfying your sweet tooth, get in on the happy hour action at any local pub or restaurant. Get a pint of a local brew, such as Saku or A. Le Coq, or go for something a bit stronger, like Saaremaa or Viru Valge Vodka.

Why Go to Tallinn

If all the history, attractions and food are not reason enough to go to Tallinn, then perhaps the fact that it was featured on Budget Travel's Top Destinations of 2011 list might be more incentive. Also, Tallinn was named a 2011 European Capitol of Culture, and the city has planned over 7,000 events over the next 12 (well, 11 1/2) months to celebrate the honor. What better time to go then now? Well, maybe not right now, seeing as the winters there are extremely dark and cold. The best time to plan a trip is during late spring or early fall, when the temperatures are decent and the crowds are minimal.

Exploring Bulgaria's Cultural Richness

Bulgaria has been a member of the European Union since 2007, but it wasn't until this week that Eurail added it to its network of travel destinations. The 2011 Global Eurail Pass will allow travelers to access the Eastern European country through the Bulgarian State Railways. Representatives of the Eurail Group are eager to expand their reach and tap into the tourism sector that has been consistently growing over the last decade. Visitors can now explore the ever increasing allure of Eastern Europe through Bulgaria's train system, taking in the vast culture and sprawling landscape of the "Country of Roses."

With a history that dates back all the way to the first antiquity--that's the 1st millenium BC, to put it in perspective--the Bulgarians have had a major role in cultural development, philosophy, agriculture, language and social structure. After spending years under foreign rule, including Alexander the Great and the Romans, Bulgaria established its first empire. It grew significantly as a military power, introduced the first code of law, created the Cyrillic Alphabet and grew into a strong Christian country. The empire slowed due to numerous wars, eventually falling and being conquered by the Byzantine Empire in 1018. It was not until 1185 that Bulgaria had an uprising and succeeded in reestablishing their empire. The Ottomans would eventually seize power over the Bulgarians, and the population suffered from oppression and misgovernment under the Turks. As a result, their culture became separated from the rest of Europe. Throughout five centuries of Ottoman rule, the Bulgarians attempted many revolts, and were finally successful with the Russo-Turkish War of 1877-78. Bulgaria was proclaimed an independent state in 1908. After that, Bulgaria began to takes steps to reconnect with Western Europe. Communism was still the main form of government up until the late nineties, early two-thousands, but now Bulgaria is seen as "free."

With the fall of communism and an increased desire to promote tourism, Bulgaria has slowly become a must-see destination in Eastern Europe. And with just one glance at the country's landscape, it's understandable why. The geographic diversity of Bulgaria allows tourists to see snow-capped peaks, beautiful beaches and sprawling plains all in one country. Not only is the natural environment appealing, but the ancient buildings, intricate architecture and traditional sites have drawn millions to Bulgaria's borders. The Thracian, Slavic and Bulgar influences can be seen through collected artifacts, and some of the most iconic pieces include the Thracian treasures, intricately crafted objects that were buried both to hide them during controversial times and for ceremonial purposes. The more famous excavations of these ornate gold and silver items are the Panagyurishte gold treasure (on display at the National Museum of History in Sofia),the Rogozan treasure (known as the find of the century with over 165 pieces discovered) and the Valchitran gold treasure (shown at the National Archeological Museum in Sofia).

Visitors to Bulgaria are fascinated by the county's ancient ancestors, so it's understandable that the many immaculate tombs on display are some of the most popular attractions. Kazanluk, referred to as the valley of the roses, became extremely popular when new tombs were discovered there in the nineties. The Sveshtari Tomb, arguably one of the finest tombs discovered in Bulgaria, dates back to the 3rd century BC and appears to be the resting place of a Thracian ruler. Thracian Tomb tours are available through BG Travel, and consist of a 5-day package of all the best tombs in the country.

Bulgaria ranks third--behind Greece and Italy--in number of archeological and historical monuments. Apart from the tombs, Bulgaria is full of crumbling fortress walls and forums, temples, amphitheaters, stadiums and monuments. Among these locations is Tsarevets, a medieval stronghold in northern Bulgaria that served as the primary fortress during the second empire. Another noteworthy site is Ledenika, a cave in the Balkan Mountains. The cave contains 10 separate halls, the largest being the concert hall accessible only through the Passage of Sinners, designated only for those whose heart is pure. If you dip your hand into the ice-cold water of the small pool in the cave, known as the Lake of Wishes, and make a wish, that wish is sure to come true. In an effort to promote tourism to these sites and many others, the country created a booklet called "100 Tourist Sites of Bulgaria." It can be purchased at any tourist union center and costs 1 lev (or 0.67 cents).

Bulgarian cuisine is extremely diverse thanks to the warm climate and rich soil. Every meal is served with a salad, which, more often than not, is made with a Bulgarian White Brine Cheese called Sirene. Most dishes are oven baked, steamed or stewed--fried is not an option--and any kind of meat is grilled. Pork dominates Bulgarian food, but many other meat varieties can be found in popular dishes, like Gyuvetch (a beef and vegetable stew). The Bulgarians are known to create quality dairy products, including yogurt, which is said to have originated in Bulgaria. Tourists should not miss out on a traditional pastry called Banitsa, made by layering whisked eggs, sirene cheese and filo pastry and then baking it. As far as drinks go, natives usually turn to Bulgarian Wine to accompany their meals--such as Mavrud, Muscat and Gamza--but Rakia, a fruity liquor, and Mastika are popular options, too.

With all that Bulgaria has to offer, it's difficult to know where to start. I recommend beginning your journey with a few days spent in the capital city of Sofia. Located in western Bulgaria, at the foot of Vitosha Mountain, Sofia sits quaintly in a large valley, surrounded by mountains. Among the city's attractions are the National Historic Museum, The Museum of Earth and Men, the Sofia City Art Gallery, the Sofia Zoological Garden, Boyana Church, and much more. You can relax in one of the public mineral baths or catch a soccer game at Vasil Levski National Stadium. There is plenty to keep you occupied during the day, and even more to do at night. Sofia has an exciting nightlife with plenty pf clubs, pubs, restaurants and mehani--traditional Bulgarian taverns. With Sofia's well-developed bus, tram and trolleycar transportation system, it's easy to get from place to place. The underground still needs work, so it's best to rely on walking or other means of transport. After experiencing Bulgaria's capitol, feel free to venture wherever you want. No matter if you head up into the mountains to ski or out to the beaches to lay in the sun, Bulgaria provides you with a truly great getaway.

So when you're planning your next big trip abroad, and Europe seems like a top contender on your destination list, think about taking advantage of Eurail's passes and taking a relaxing train ride to Bulgaria. You certainly won't be disappointed with this cultural gem.

Thanksgiving Celebration Across the Ocean

This year was the third year in a row that I spent Thanksgiving away from home. With work posing scheduling conflicts and my family living so far away that I have to buy an expensive plane ticket, it was too difficult to make the trip. So once again, I ventured to Crystal Lake, Illinois to spend the holiday with my boyfriend's family. I'm not complaining; in fact, it's developing into a nice tradition--that will probably continue as long as things keep progressing with my relationship. But there is still a part of me that aches to be home for Thanksgiving. I miss my mom preparing the turkey, mixing the potatoes and baking pumpkin pie. Sure, I can see that being done anywhere, but it isn't my mom, it isn't my kitchen, it isn't my family. I miss the conversations we have around the dinner table after the plates have been whipped clean of their delicious contents. I miss the way my dog begs for any remaining scraps. I miss how I'm usually the only one--besides my grandpa--who dips into the warm pie, because I always make room for dessert. I've made some incredible memories at home, and I know I'll make many more in the future here in Chicago. And even though I missed home this holiday, my mind kept wandering back to the first Thanksgiving I ever spent away from home back in 2006.

It was during my semester studying abroad in Italy. My friend, Sari, and I decided to fly up to England to visit our friend Emily who was living in London for the semester. We figured since we couldn't be with our families, we might as well surround ourselves with friends. Now, the British do not acknowledge Thanksgiving, so locating all the traditional fixings was a little difficult. We couldn't just walk into a store like in the states and have a Thanksgiving display there with everything we needed. It took a couple trips, some scrounging and some substituting, but we eventually located a turkey, cranberries, potatoes, green beans, stuffing ingredients and, of course, pumpkin pie. The preparations started early, with Emily's roommates clearing the kitchen and making the pre-dinner snacks, our friend Harris taking over turkey duty, and the rest of us selecting various dishes to work on. I peeled the potatoes, while Sari made the stuffing and Emily made the gravy and cranberry sauce. After a long afternoon in the kitchen performing the work our parents usually handle, we pulled the turkey out of the oven, placed all the food in serving plates and laid it all out on the table. Paired with a couple bottles of wine and some fresh bread purchased from the baker down the street, our British Thanksgiving looked pretty impressive. After loading our plates, passing food between all of us, we took a moment to reflect on our hard work and the incredible feast we were about to enjoy. I said a silent prayer, thanking God for giving me the chance to be with friends and have a lovely meal. Then we raised our glasses to our country's holiday and then dug in.

After dinner, as we all unbuttoned our pants just a little, Emily grabbed a candle from her room and lit it. The tradition is, she said, that you pass the candle around the room, and everyone says what they are thankful for this year. Some people's were simple, some humorous, others long-winded, but what everyone said they were thankful for was being in great company. Because that is what Thanksgiving is really all about; being around people you care about and who care about you. So even if you were far away from home this Thanksgiving, I hope you were surrounded by a good group of people.

Venturing to Nova Scotia

I was browsing through the latest news stories on Hospitality Net when I saw the announcement that the Culinary Tourism World Summit would be held in Halifax, Nova Scotia. What peaked my interest about this was not the renowned culinary leaders or special events or fabulous dinners that would take place at the event, but rather the location itself. Nova Scotia? Really? So I did a little research, and as you may or may not have guessed, I'm adding another destination to my list.

Nova Scotia is located directly East of Maine. (This truly surprised me, because I had this idea that Nova Scotia was way further North than that, closer to say...Greenland. I was way off.) Halifax is a bustling port city said to be the gateway to Atlantic Canada. It's rich maritime history and eclectic modern vibe make it a place worth visiting. But don't let my praises sway you, just listen to all the things you can see and do in Halifax.....

The heart and soul of this seafront town is, of course, it's harbor. If you are a history buff, make a trip to Pier 21 and the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. Canada's version of Ellis Island, Pier 21 was the doorway for over one million immigrants who came over to Nova Scotia between 1920 and 1970. Genealogists will truly appreciate this testament to Halifax's ancestors. The Maritime Museum is the largest one on Canada, housing artifacts, photographs, charts and maps relating to Nova Scotia's marine history. Exhibits feature the Halifax Explosion of 1917, the Royal Canadian Navy, the merchant marine, the Halifax connection to the Titanic and the many local shipwrecks that occurred around the harbor. At Fisherman's Cove, you can watch the local fisherman come in with their daily catch, or take a boat ride out to McNab's Island. Peggy's Cove is a picturesque destination known for it's breathtaking scenery and traditional lighthouse--which is also a working post office.

The Halifax Citadel is a star-shaped naval station nestled atop a hill in the middle of downtown. This living history museum offers guided tours from an costumed patron, who will show you the musket gallery and garrison cells. At noon every day, the 78th Highland Regiment fires the cannon. Halifax is brimming with antique buildings that transport visitors back to the early years of the city's settlement. St. Paul's Church, built in 1750, is Halifax's oldest building and the first Protestant Church in Canada. One of the most famous structures in Halifax, Old Town Clock started keeping time for residents in 1803. Other buildings of note are Province House--a Georgian building that housed the first government in the British Empire--and Government House--home of Nova Scotia's Lieutenant Governor and the oldest government building in Canada.

Halifax is a outdoor enthusiast's paradise; with kayaking, hiking, fishing, golfing and more, guests will never run out of things to do. You can take a deep-sea dive to explore the graveyard of shipwrecked boats around the harbor, or relax in the sun on one of the many gorgeous beaches. Surfers can enjoy great waves on the Eastern Shore at Lawrencetown Beach, while hikers can huff up the 14-mile trail at Taylor Head Provincial Park.


As far as entertainment and nightlife go, Halifax doesn't disappoint. The city is known for it's vibrant music scene, and visitors can experience exceptional shows at Symphony Nova Scotia or Neptune Theater. There are also a number of festivals and events to attend, like the Halifax Pop Explosion, Nocturne: Art at night and Atlantic Film Festival, just to name a few. The nightlife thrives with packed bars and contemporary restaurants, most of which are in walking distance of downtown.

The culinary experience in Halifax is one guests won't soon forget. They are known for their seafood dishes--I can't imagine why--and the award-winning chefs are meticulous with their dishes, creating true masterpieces on the plate. Visitors can indulge on Digby Scallops and Nova Scotia Lobster, the savory delights can be found on many restaurant menus. But the dining experience doesn't have to be super fancy, there are casual eateries up and down the waterfront where tourists can grab a quick bite. There are way too many restaurants to name, but you can trust that you'll find something great no matter where you go.

Halifax, Nova Scotia is a wonderful city full of Canadian culture and heritage. (Those Culinary experts may be on to something.) With it's beautiful beaches, active harbor and exciting nightlife, Halifax seems like a great place to travel to. And since I've never been there myself, I think it's time I looked into a little trip across the border.

A City's Hidden Places

I found myself in the Fulton Market area last week, a grungy looking industrial neighborhood with meat packing trucks lining the streets. It didn't exactly feel like a hip locale, at least not at first. Sprinkled in amongst the desolate buildings and vacant lots are a handful of quaint restaurants, galleries and boutiques that would otherwise go unnoticed if it weren't for the energetic crowds out front. The Publican was my first indication that life did exist here. This unique gastropub is famous for their pork dishes, communal dining and signature brews.And while I was intrigued to enter this bustling food mecca, I walked on past the outdoor tables and toward my destination. Another block up and I faced a building front made completely of glass windows and doors, with a small fluorescent sign that read Otom. It took me a moment to register that this was the place where I was meeting my friend, it seemed so quiet, practically dead. But after some intoxicating cocktails--practically couldn't put mine down--and an incredible meal--a delicious spin on mac and cheese--I was hooked on this place, and the neighborhood where it resided.

Much to my chagrin, it seems other people have known about this area for years. How it is possible I had never ventured here before? The whole experience made me realize that there are way too many places around Chicago that I've never visited, who knows what I'm missing out on. But it made me think about the hidden gems in other cities. So I went online to search on the secret neighborhoods of major metropolitan areas, and I came across an article about a quaint area in East London. It talked about all the unique shops, bars, markets and restaurants that were hidden from London's more touristy locales. I am a huge fan of London--in fact it's probably the European city I would most likely live in, apart from Rome--and I had honestly never heard of Regent's Canal or the old industrial sector of the city, not to mention neighborhoods like Shoreditch, Bethnal Green and Hackney Wick. (Yes, those are their real names, it's England after all.) And even though I have never been to this part of London, I can certainly appreciate what it has to offer. Because it seems to me that some of the best places are off the beaten path, they make a city what is it, add a little more flare--as if there wasn't enough.

I fully intend to visit this part of London when I have the privilege of returning. For now, I might try to venture further outside my comfort zone in Chicago. And I encourage everyone else to do the same, you may be surprised with what you find.

Common Misconceptions of an Eastern European Gem

As I was skimming through my movie selection the other day, I came across one of my favorite comedies: Eurotrip. For those who have never seen it, I'll try not to spoil it, but basically the movie follows the travels of these four, recently graduated high school students as they trek through Europe trying to find the lead character's German pen pal--who happens to be a smoking-hot blonde girl. At one point, the crew finds themselves slightly off course when they end up in Bratislava, Slovakia, or as they grudgingly call it "Eastern Europe." Now here's where I start to get skeptical, because the movie depicts Bratislava as a grungy, dirty, dilapidated city with practically no one around except a creepy guy who loves old American television shows. But this is completely wrong.

While it used to be relatively dead many years ago, Bratislava is now a bustling metropolis filled with boutique shops and hotels, fine dining establishments, eclectic art galleries and crowds so thick you can barely cross the street. Streets are lined with baroque palaces nestled near quaint coffee shops. The Gothic church, St. Martin's Cathedral holds political and historical significance--11 monarchs were crowned there. It's common to stumble upon a lavish beer garden, a lively art exhibit, a wine museum or even a Slovakian tea room.

Bratislava is conveniently located at the crossroads between Vienna, Prague and Budapest, which is why so many locals from these cities visit for long weekends. In fact, many Europeans are realizing the allure of Bratislava and taking advantage of cheap flights to Slovakia. Along with its geographical benefits, Bratislava also holds many intellectual opportunities. Bratislava Castle holds a number of museums that feature exhibits on the region's Celtic, Roman and Moravian history.

The one part of Bratislava that Eurotrip did get right is its over-the-top night life. After the sun sets, the people come out in troves to enjoy everything from casual dining to crowded bars to underground dance clubs. There is a place that is literally underground, in a former nuclear fallout shelter that now plays techno and trance music. Many of the outdoor cafes get pretty busy once the kitchen closes and local musicians set up shop; people are literally dancing among the tables.

The countryside surrounding Bratislava is also worth noting, with upscale wineries and mountain towns selling ceramic masterpieces. These are nice if you are looking for a day trip out of the city.

I have only flown into the Bratislava airport, where I caught a shuttle that took me over the border into Austria to visit Vienna. In all honesty, I thought by missing the city, I had dodged a bullet. But my misconceptions of Bratislava were all due to Eurotrip and the negative picture it painted. So while it is an amusing part of the film, and I still enjoy it, I'll make sure to learn a little bit more about a place before I make another judgment like that.

Cultural Festivals Transport Us to Another World

As anyone who reads this blog on a regular basis knows, I love Italy. I would go back in a heartbeat if I could. Sadly, I do not have the money nor a stable enough career to take that vacation. However, I can always get a taste of Italy if I really want to. Indeed, food is a gateway to culture and tradition. All I have to do is whip up some spaghetti bolognese, or grill a proscuitto panini, or scoop a spoonful of straciatella gelato, and I am instantly back in Rome walking down Via del Corso. And one of the best places to eat Italian food is at an Italian festival.

Italian Fest is next weekend, and I fully intend on hitting up Little Italy all weekend long. Not only will the food be sensational, but there will be wine tastings galore. (Because it certainly is not a meal without a glass of vino.) On top of the sustenance and libations, Italian Fest will also offer cultural keepsakes from vendors and artists. I will be looking for any photo or painting of an Italian city to hang on my wall at home. Even though I can purchase Italian fare and souvenirs, it's the vibe that really makes the experience enjoyable. There is an electricity, a feeling of community at International festivals. They pull you into the culture, and it's sad when you have to leave that world. 

In the interest of broadening my horizons--Italian Fest is not the only place to get great food and wine--I will also be attending Greek Fest at the end of August and then Polish Fest in the beginning of September. Obviously, I will try to fit in more if I can, but those are the three big ones. And for one day--or however long I spend there--I will be transported into the world of these fascinating countries.

I can't wait to take a bite.

Venturing to the Ice City

If you haven't noticed, it's cold outside! No, not just cold, frigid, bitter. Chicago has been hit by a cold snap, and I for one am not thrilled about it. But I solace the fact that I don't live somewhere like Harbin, China--better known as the Ice City.

The name alone tells it all--this place is cold. In fact, it can reach as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit. I can honestly say I am happy I live in Chicago, a place where the average monthly high in January is not 9 degrees. And yet this city appears to have some interesting quarks that even the sanest person would venture to see. One being the International Ice and Snow Festival held every January since 1985. The sculptures are created using a range of technology, from modern lasers to traditional ice lanterns. Other activities other than touring the sculptures include alpine skiing and winter swimming, as well as ice lantern exhibitions.

Apart from the ice festival, there is plenty more to see in Harbin. It is a city known for its architecture--a mix of Russian and European. There is a free museum where one can view all the various styles--Zhong Yang Street. It houses one of the main business areas, as well as showcases the international focus of the city. Baroque and Byzantine buildings, Russian bakeries, French fashion houses, American eateries and Japanese restaurants line the street. Fiest your eyes.

The local cuisine is largely Russian influenced, especially their bread--lie ba. Their sausages are worth trying as they have more of a European flavor than other Chinese sausages.

Yes, the cold definitely makes this city less than desirable to visit. But given the chance--and the right outerwear--one may find Harbin a pleasant destination. Plus, their summers are fairly warm, so if the cold is really that much of a deterant, head there in early August for their music festival.

Sure, the cold is rough. But if I had architecture and ice like Harbin, I'd be outside a lot more--well, maybe only a couple extra minutes.

Shipping up to Boston

This past week/weekend, I went to Boston, Massachusetts.

I had never been to beantown before, but I had expectations built up in my head. Historic buildings and architecture, classy neighborhoods, cold weather, good food, and, um, cultured people. And to my delight and dismay, most of those assumptions were correct.
On my first night in Boston, I was greeted by my best friend from high school, Emily, and she helped me hop the T--still not sure why it's called that--to my parent's hotel, the Taj. After dropping off my luggage, we headed out to meet everyone at a local seafood restaurant, Legal Seafood. My brother, his friends, and my parents were all a couple drinks in and still waiting for their food, so we joined the festivities. A couple samples from each person's dish, and I was convinced that Boston would have a promising food selection, and I would have to divulge in a full meal the next day. After dinner, Emily and I headed off with my brother and his entourage to a place called Foundation Lounge. Your pretty average loungy bar and hot night spot. We received bottle service--pretty classy right?--and relaxed on couches reserved for our group. After Emily left because she worked early the next morning, the bar continued to thrive with more and more people arriving. But what became clear was that this was not really my scene, and the people were not all that thrilled with our presence there either. My brother began dancing around tables and got a couple sharp glances from the local crowd. Apparently some behavior is just unacceptable in Boston.

After stumbling back to the hotel at 2 a.m.--so not my style on a Wednesday night--I crashed until about 9 a.m. or so. Once showered and a bottle of water in hand, my parents and I hit Newbury Street--the Michigan Avenue of Boston. Expensive clothing stores, cute boutiques, and fashionistas galore lined the street as we walked through the chilly fall air. Since it was almost noon when we finally started our day, we headed to a highly recommended restaurant on Newbury called Stephanie's. The warm setting, with a cozy fireplace and white linen table clothes, was welcoming for a group of tourists. After scanning the menu, which listed things from lobster salad rolls to citrus crusted salmon, I opted for an old classic which I have never had the opportunity to taste--New England Clam Chowder. Just a cup of this creamy mixture, and my entire body felt warm and satisfied. Definitely an item I will be eating again. The rest of the afternoon was spent scouring the shops for dresses--mostly for my mom--and I am happy to report that after four hours of searching, she finally found one she liked.

That night we all got dressed up for my brother's movie screening--the whole reason I went to Boston in the first place. Emily, her roommates, and I quickly dolled ourselves up in dresses and heels, while munching on cheese and crackers and sipping pinot grigio. Then we headed over to Cambridge--just across the river from Boston--to the theater where the movie was showing. We were greeted with free drinks and a spread of food. Once most guests had arrived, we moved into the theater, took our seats, and waited for the movie to begin. The Lonliest Road in America is the product of over a year of hard work and dedication from my brother, Colin Day, and his friend, Mardana Mayginnes (forgive the harmless plug). And it seems it was received with plenty of praise from the Boston crowd, and they aren't the easiest people to impress. The night ended with an after party at a local Irish pub with more drinks and food.

It's pretty clear I was well fed on this trip.

My last full day in Boston, I went sight seeing with my parents. We pretty much saw everything one should see while they're there: Trinity Church, Copley Square, Boston Common--to see the colors change,-- The Massachusetts State House, the Old State House, Faneuil Hall, and Quincy Market. At first, we had every intention of just making our way through Boston Common, and then we were not even sure what we would do next. But as it turns out, and this surprised me, Boston is not that big. Once we got through the Commons, there was the State House with its famous gold dome. Then we realized we were close to downtown, and it was an easy walk to the Old State House and Quincy Market. It was actually a very pleasant walk--minus the rain that seemed to follow us through the day. And while the city is not the easiest to navigate because the streets were not built on a grid system and there is no logical order to how they are set up, we were able to figure out--with help from street maps and my mom's GPS on her iphone--where we were and how to get to the next place. When we arrived at Quincy Market, we were starving. So we found a little cafe under the building called Salty Dog Grille and Cafe (sorry, couldn't find a website.) Now because of the location, it was pretty much known as a tourist spot. But we were hungry, it was raining, and we just needed some place to rest. We didn't want to wait for a table so we just sat at the bar, which turned out to be the best choice. It felt a lot more personal and comfortable, and the bartender was extremely friendly. My parents both got fish and chips and I opted for the crab cakes--another meal I was told I had to try while there. We each got a Sam Adams brew--them the Boston Lager, me the Oktoberfest--and they were very enjoyable.

After a long day of sightseeing, we headed back to the hotel, relaxed, showered and got ready to meet Emily for our last dinner in Boston. We went to a french restaurant that was recommended to us called Troquet. A quiant little place perfect for the theater crowd. A little fancier than I anticipated, but wonderful nontheless. My parents both ordered the lamb, Emily sampled the langoustines, and I nibbled on a rich pasta dish with mushrooms and truffle. If ever you're in Boston and you have a little extra money to spare, check this restaurant out, it is delicious.

Before my flight left on Saturday, there was still one more thing I had not done in Boston. I needed to go to the Omni Parker House and order a Boston Cream Pie--a round cake split and filled with custard and frosted with chocolate--the official desert of Massachusetts. The hotel apparently invented this sweet confection, though it is difficult to prove, so I figured why not go to the place where it all started. So after a large brunch with Emily and our friend Erik who came up to visit from New York, we headed over to the hotel. We ordered one piece to pie to share, and when it was placed on the table we all gazed in awe at its beauty. I almost didn't want to dig my fork into the perfect frosting...but I did! And heaven never tasted so good.

So maybe the people could have been nicer and the weather a little less dreary, but overall the trip to Boston was memorable. Add family, good friends, beautiful sights, strong drinks, and scrumptious food, and you've got yourself a darn good time in beantown.